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| Okay lets get started. For now this is what you will need for the basic construction. **Safety First** Tools Needed: Tape Measure Saw Hole Saw Drill & Bits Sander Jigsaw Square Dowel Jig Clamps Router Materials Needed: 4 Sheet of 3/4 plywood A/C type (Sanded on one side) 12 Cap Bolts, washers, and wing nuts Epoxy Glue for Cap Bolts Dowels Wood Glue Wood Screws Wood Filler |
| And this is how we are going to build it. |

| The square I use is made out of wood so I laid it out for every arc I will need to make, drilled the holes big enough for a pencil to fit put a nail in the hole I drilled into the plywood (center point) and made my first mark at 24''. This needs to be done to one other sheet of plywood. |



| Set one of the sheets of plywood aside. I used my square again to draw a 4'' ring around the arc (20'' from the center hole) and a straightedge for the long sides, then I used my saw with a fence on it to cut the long sides and the jig saw to cut the arc, the cut offs are good to clamp in place so the ring doesn't fall through when cutting. This sheet of plywood is the top piece of the rail and the base of the table. Before setting this aside to cut the next sheet of plywood put a mark on both pieces so you know how to put it back together. |


| With the other sheet of plywood, lay it out for the racetrack and felt part of the table. The measurements you lay out are 12'' (center felt piece), 16'' (center line for the cup holders) and 22'' (This is the other half of the rail) |

| Next pulled a tape and make marks at 19 1/4'', 38 1/2'', 57 1/2''and 76 3/4'' lay the tape near the 16'' line then take the square, where the marks intersect with the 16'' line is the center of the cup holders. For the end cup holders 24'' is the center mark for those. |




| For the center felt piece I figured out the distance from the edge of the saw to the blade and screwed a board in place for a fence. You can clamp it in place too, if you screw it make sure you screw it into the center felt area its getting cover with felt anyways. Then cut the arcs of the center felt with the jigsaw. Mark everything so you know how it goes back together. |

| After the sanding is done I laid the sheet of plywood that is cut out for the, felt area, racetrack and the 2'' rail piece on the ground. Lay it down so the rough side of the plywood is up. |



| Then I took an old deck. I used 7 cards at a time and cut them in about 1/2 '' strips, then stick then into the cuts. If you have to use a flat bar or something to get the cards in, doing this will make sure everything goes together without any problems |


| When you’re done with sticking the card strips in, everything will be spaced evenly. Then put the other sheet of plywood on top with the smooth side up this time and do the same thing to this with the cards. Then draw 2 lines around the edge one at 1'' and the other at 7'' they don't have to be perfect it just give you an idea where the screws need to go. |


| Next I found a drill bit that was a little bigger then the screw heads I decided to use, don't drill to deep just enough so the screw heads get counter sunk. Line the two sheets of plywood up and screw them together. I used 1 1/4'' wood screws. |


| Then you can lift off the rail piece. Set the racetrack back onto saw horses and give it a test fit .If it’s a tight fit you can always sand the edge down some more. |


| Then I took the router to 3 of the edges of the rail just so everything wraps nice when I wrap it with foam and vinyl. I used the 3/4” bit to counter sink the cap bolts. I drilled out for 12 cap bolts, I put 2 on each side and 1 at the ends on the rail and the center felt, don't go to deep just deep enough to sink the heads of the cap bolts, then I drilled holes in the center of those holes with a 7/32” bit all the way through both sheet of plywood. Then I took the rail off and the center felt area out then I drill out the 7/32” holes with a 3/8” drill bit. |


| Then I got ready for the epoxy glue by starting the cap bolts. I put some of the epoxy around the cap bolt. Spin it around to mix it. |


| Put the washer and wing nut on, then I called it a night to let it dry. I tried using T-Nuts on the first oval table I made and had a hell of a time with them, I think this was a lot easier to do, plus one good thing by do it this way is I don't need any tools to take it apart, with the T-nuts you would need a screwdriver. |


| From a half sheet of plywood you will need a piece of plywood that’s 48'' x 461/2'', cut it in half and you got the 2 long sides for the pedestal. With the last sheet of the 3/4'' plywood I start by cutting two 6'' strips off of it. From these strips I got my sides for the top part of the pedestal. (2 - 48'' and 2 - 13 1/2'') |
| Next from that same sheet I laid out a 24'' x 24'' square then I cut it in half, these two 12'' x 24'' pieces will become the short sides of the bottom part of the pedestal. |


| Then I made a made a rectangle that is 33” x 59”. Then I cut that rectangle at 18’’ lengthwise. The 18'' piece is for the bottom part of the pedestal and the 15'' piece is for the top part of the pedestal. With the 18'' x 59'' piece I laid it out next to round the corners. (9'' x 9'' is the center of the arc) |




| Then I cut down the 15'' piece down to a length of 51” then I rounded the edges with the router and sander. With that done it's time to put everything together. |


| I started with the top part of the pedestal first; there is a reason to do this part first. Before setting up the dowel jig I laid the sides out on the ground and took a marker and marked all the joints. Then I set the pieces in the jig the edge where you see the square at is the edge with the marks on them. |




| After all the joints where drilled and doweled I glued and installed some screws. Once everything was together I took the router to all the edges besides the edge that will get attached to the 15'' x 51'' piece of wood. |


| I center it up on the 15'' x 51'' part and trace around it with a pencil. Applied some glue inside of my marks. |


| Line it up with the lines then clamped it off. Flip it over and drove some screws in it. |


| This is why I did the top part first, before putting the bottom part of the pedestal together I slid the sides inside of the top part to make sure everything will fit nice. If it doesn't break out the sander and sand the edges down a bit, now is the time to see if everything fits BEFORE you put it together. Then I basically put the bottom part together the same way as the top. Fits Like a Glove! |


| After the pedestal is done I flipped the table top over and centered up where the top part of the pedestal will go. Those holes that were drilled to make the very first arc are a good thing to go by to center the pedestal up with. |


| I then glued and screwed it to the under side of the tabletop. |
| Then I got some of them arc cut off sand cut some blocks out of then to get the height of the table up. All I did was screw these in place without glue, just in case I ever need to lower the table for any reason. |




| The basic construction is just about done, the only thing left to do is flip the table back over and drill the holes out for the cup holders, before doing that I got the under side of the table ready for paint by filling all the screw heads in with wood filler. I even did all the joints too. |
| After sanding the underneath side I flipped it over, put it together. It’s looking good so far. Now I drill out the holes for the cup holders, I got the jumbo size cup holders, which is a 3 3/4'' hole. I found the hole saw at Home Depot. |


| Done with the cup holder holes and lots of sanding it’s time for the paint job. I flip it over put the bottom part of the pedestal in and gave it a base coat of gray. I got all the paint at Walmart. |




| After a light sanding and another coat of gray, I masked off the edge so the rail will go on with no problems. Applied the fleck paint, let dry then applied the final clear coat over the fleck paint. I like this paint a lot it looks so cool. |

| Then I painted the racetrack part of the table and called it a night to let everything dry. |


| Next was to get my sister over to draw the graphics my wife wants on the table. She wanted dragons around the racetrack. |


| The dragons with some color. |

| I used a lacquer for a clear coat; I used a total of 8 cans. I sanded in between each coat with 220 grit sand paper. Move it up to the poker room. |

| Next I applied the 1/4'' foam with 3M Spray Adhesive and cut it with a electric knife. I got the foam from Smackdogg. When I first order from Smackdogg they had a package deal, the package consisted of cup holders, felt, foam, and the vinyl everything you needed. They don’t have that deal anymore so now a days I get everything from Your Auto Trim Store. |




| I laid the felt on the floor and the centerpiece on top of it, and then I trace a line around it using a pack of smokes as a guide. Yeah, yeah I know smoking is bad for you. |


| I started attaching the felt to the wood on one of the long side did the other opposite side then the arches. See the orange dot? The table has one too so I know how it goes together. |


| Then I installed the wing nuts from underneath. Now it was time for the last piece of the puzzle, the rail. I decided to use 1/2 '' foam on the rail. I sprayed it with the adhesive and trim it up with the electric knife again. |


| I laid the vinyl down with the rail on top. Just like the felt I started to attach along one of the long sides then the opposite side. For the arches I started right in the center of the arch then the opposite, when I did a side I ALWAY did the opposite side of what I just did. Then trimmed the vinyl. This is how the middle part of the vinyl should be cut to wrap the inside. When cutting the fingers for the arches stop you cut about 2 to 3 inches away from the frame of the rail. |

| It’s time! Shuffle up and deal! |


